The future of a favorite San Antonio breakfast — Big Red and barbacoa — swirls with uncertainty.
(At first I thought this was about the gum and was upset—Editor)
Barbacoa isn’t going anywhere. But what will happen to Big Red?
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The ingredient that gives the popular soft drink its bright color, red dye No. 40, is supposed to be removed from food and beverages by the end of 2026.
In April, the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services and the U.S. Food and Drug Administration announced a plan to phase out eight previously allowed petroleum-based synthetic dyes from the nation’s food supply.
Keurig Dr Pepper, which manufactures Big Red, has not said whether it will replace red dye No. 40 with an alternative. And the company has not responded to multiple calls, emails and messages from the San Antonio Report.
But the Texas-based company has said it will alter at least one beverage that contains an artificial dye, telling Newsweek, “We are actively reformulating YooHoo Strawberry Drink — the only product in our portfolio with Red Dye No. 3. The new formula will be on shelves before the end of the year.”
The announcement corresponds with a federal campaign asking food and beverage companies to remove artificial dyes from their products — without mandating that they make changes yet.
If Keurig Dr Pepper reformulates Big Red, it’s unclear how different the soda might look or taste.
Also uncertain is the impact on consumers in Big Red country. As Texas Highways proclaimed in February, “Big Red is Texas Barbecue’s Unofficial Signature Soda.”
Since Health Secretary Robert F. Kennedy announced in April a plan to eliminate petroleum-based dyes, local concern has emerged about the impact on Big Red.
San Antonio staple Tommy’s Restaurant promotes “Big Red and Barbacoa Everyday!” Owner Brandon Ramos says his “Guac My World” combo, a barbacoa and guacamole taco with Big Red, is a bestseller. But he fears that removing red dye No. 40 might affect sales.
“I’m worried it will change the flavor profile or the visual look of Big Red,” Ramos said. “I’m hoping for the best. Big Red is important. It’s woven into the culture of San Antonio.”
At least one San Antonian posted a tongue-in-cheek warning on Instagram about the brewing controversy: “If you come for BIG RED. The 210 will RIOT. And I will lead the charge. Is it bad … am I allergic to the red dye .. yes … but let me live a little. (laughing emoji).”
Red dye No. 40 ban?
The federal directive to phase out artificial dyes has divided the food and beverage industry. General Mills, Kraft Heinz, PepsiCo and other companies have agreed to comply.
Mars, the maker of M&Ms and Skittles candies, has resisted, saying its products are safe and changes would be costly. The American Beverage Association is also pushing back, arguing on its website that, “Banning ingredients like colors that are proven safe and approved worldwide will only create more challenges.”
The National Confectioners Association said the FDA has deemed their ingredients and products safe and asserted that candy should be treated differently than food.
Not everyone is worried about possible changes to Big Red or the new Texas state law that requires warning labels on foods containing any of 44 ingredients, including red dye No. 40.
Robert Morris, founder of the annual Barbacoa & Big Red Festival, held in October at the Freeman Coliseum, believes San Antonians will adjust to whatever changes are made to Big Red.
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“I don’t think it would affect us much as long as they continue carrying the product and it tastes the same,” Morris said. “I understand that the red dye is a big factor in the change. But maybe Big Red will have an alternate plan. San Antonio loves to come out to our festival and have a good time.
“Look at Fiesta. Look at the rodeo. People will still come out and celebrate the barbacoa. That’s a part of our heritage. It’s part of our fabric in San Antonio. Big Red is the cherry on top.”
What is Big Red?
Conceived in a Waco lab in 1937, Big Red was originally called Sun Tang Red Cream Soda. It was renamed in the late 1950s after the president of the soft drink’s bottling company in San Antonio heard a golf caddy refer to the soda as “big red.”
Under the new name, Big Red became a big seller across Texas and parts of the South. Locally, the soft drink gained enormous popularity when it was advertised on Swing Time, a 1960s TV dance show.
Over the years, the sweet soda that tastes like “liquid bubble gum” found its way into taquerias and became one half of a local breakfast staple: Big Red and barbacoa.
“It’s very popular,” said Ramos, who has a small fridge packed with four shelves of the ruby-red drink near his cash register. “People just buy Big Red all the time.”
Culinary creatives across Texas infuse Big Red into their food and beverages. In Austin, LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue combines the soft drink syrup with tempranillo, Seville orange fortified wine and citrus juices to create a frozen Big Red sangria.
In Seguin, Burnt Bean Company soaks cake in soda to produce a unique offering: Big Red tres leches.
In San Antonio, James Beard-nominated chef Leo Davila infuses heirloom nixtamalized masa with Big Red to make the pink tortilla that holds his Big Red & Barbacoa taco at Anacacho Coffee & Cantina.
Big Red shows up in tacos, desserts and frozen drinks everywhere in Texas. But it mostly shows up in bottles: cold, sweet and deliciously red. The bottle lists Red 40 as an ingredient, but does not disclose the amount.
San Antonio prepares for change
A growing number of food manufacturers have committed to the government campaign. On July 14, the International Dairy Foods Association announced that dozens of ice cream companies have pledged to remove seven artificial dyes, including red dye No. 40, from their desserts by 2028.
Will the maker of Big Red fall in line?
Davila is not waiting to find out. He’s already experimenting with alternative coloring for his Big Red & Barbacoa tacos.
“We’re using beets for more of a natural dye color,” he said. “It still gives it a beautiful hue and highlights the pink tortillas.”
Customers have been told of the experiment and asked to provide feedback.
“We’ve had overwhelmingly positive reviews,” Davila said. “They like the taste. It goes into clean eating. People fully enjoy what we’re doing and why we’re doing it.”
Restaurateurs who sell Big Red aren’t sure how they might respond to the removal of red dye No. 40. But they have an inkling of Keurig Dr Pepper’s decision.
“I believe the pressure is going to make them change,” Ramos said.
Disclosure: PepsiCo has been a financial supporter of The Texas Tribune, a nonprofit, nonpartisan news organization that is funded in part by donations from members, foundations and corporate sponsors. Financial supporters play no role in the Tribune’s journalism. Find a complete list of them here.
